Posts Tagged ‘DIY Project’

Under Cabinet Drawers

Under Cabinet Drawers - Wonderful storage

Under Cabinet Drawers

Hi Everyone!!!  Right now it’s all about storage in our shop today as we show you how we increased our kitchen storage using Under Cabinet Drawers.  What are these drawers I speak of you ask? – Only the greatest thing since slide bread!

Under Cabinet Drawers - Wonderful storage

Living in a small space requires you to figure out how to use every single inch of unused space.  We brought you posts to complete in between the stud cabinets featured in our Master Bathroom Storage post listed on Bob Vila Nation a while back.  It was an awesome space saver giving us room to move around in a small bathroom without the cabinet hanging on the wall.

Today we teamed up with our good friends over at D. Lawless Hardware to bring you Under Cabinet Drawers for your kitchen space.  If you are not familiar with D. Lawless Hardware, you need to be.  They sell a large range of needed things from drawer pulls to drawer glides, which they furnished for today’s post.  They ship directly to your door making it super easy to get your projects planned and implemented so you can start using that lost space.

If you recall last week we installed a Sear’s trash compactor in a retro fitted kitchen cabinet.    It was a choice I do not regret, but since I lost some cabinet space, I need to find a way to reclaim it.  I needed storage for all the baggies and stuff that lived inside that half of the cabinet, which started my research into motion.  I got lucky with a Family Handyman article that provided nice DIY project instructions for completing the Under Cabinet Drawers DIY Project.

The Under Cabinet Drawers, also called Toe Kick Drawers, provide 4” of storage under cabinet storage space for things like baggie storage, cookie sheets, lids for pots and pans and oven mitts and towels.  You cannot beat a drawer and if you can put it where no one knows it’s there it’s like having a secret when your guest watches glide the drawer out.

Here’s what you will need to complete the drawers:

Materials List

1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” birch plywood for the drawer sides (we built four drawers that ranged between 15” and 34”)

1 – 4’x8’ sheet of ¼” birch plywood for the drawer and cradle bottoms

12’ of 1×4 pine for the cradle sides

Drawer pulls

Wood glue

5/8” and 1 3/16” nails (We use a Ryobi nail gun.  If you use brad nails be sure to pilot to prevent splitting your wood)

4 sets of 18” full extension side mount drawer glides (We used 18” Length Quantum Full Extension Ball Bearing Slide provided by D Lawless Hardware)

Hardwood for the drawer fronts – 3 ¾” (Cut to size depending on your under counter space)

What we did to build the drawers:

The first part of this Under Cabinet Drawers build requires you to remove the toe kick and under cabinet fronts so you can determine your cabinet measurements.  As suggested by the Family Handyman article you only need three measurements, the under cabinet width, depth and height.  This will allow you to determine the measurements for your Under Cabinet Drawers and the special cradle that makes all this possible.

Under Cabinet Drawers - Remove Toe Kick and cut drawer sides

With your measurements in hand it was time to start cutting the drawer sides.  Luckily we had several partial sheets of 3/4” birch plywood from other projects.  Using an assembly line approach, we ripped all our under cabinet drawer sides to 3” and cut the drawer fronts and sides to length.  The drawers were attached with Titebond glue and 1 3/16” nails and our Ryobi nail gun.  Before attaching the drawer bottoms, we slide the drawers under the cabinet for a dry fit.  Perfect!

Under Cabinet Drawers - Build the drawer sides

The drawer bottoms were made from ¼” birch ply.  We purchased four 2×4 sheets from The Home Depot.  To measure the drawer bottoms we laid the drawer on top and drew a line marking the edges.  The ¼” ply was then ripped to size and attached Titebond glue and 5/8” nails using our Ryobi nail gun.

With the drawers built we cut the cradle sides the same length as the drawer sides.  We then measured for the drawer glides.  Since we wanted the tops of our under cabinet drawer to align with the cradle tops we measured 2” from the bottom of the cradle and 1 ¾” from the bottom of the drawer and drew a line.  Our drawers would be attached using this center line as our guide.

Under Cabinet Drawers - Build the cradle

With the drawer glides attached we joined the under cabinet drawers to the cradle.  We then placed the ¼” birch plywood beneath and traced a line to mark the size of the cradle bottom.  Before attaching the cradle bottom we did another dry fit.  Then the cradle bottom was attached using titebond glue and 5/8” nails and our Ryobi Nail Gun.

With the under cabinet drawers and cradles complete, it was time to attach the cradle sides to the under cabinet frames.  We used our Ryobi angle and predrilled a hole and used two #6 1 ½” screws for each cradle side.

Under Cabinet Drawers - Attach cradle cabinet base

The final step was to cut and attach the under cabinet drawer fronts. We had some left over Poplar that we ripped to 3 ¾” width.  This provided about 1/8” space for the drawer front to clear the cabinet.  We decided to use Poplar versus hardwood because we will be painting our kitchen cabinets soon (that is right, another future post).

Under Cabinet Drawers - Wonderful storage

Now that the drawers are built, you can see the amazing storage we created.  We want to thank D Lawless Hardware for providing their versatile 18” Length Quantum Full Extension Ball Bearing Slide.  They are a full service hardware provider, so make sure you visit their page to order the items you may need for your projects, or to save money on your drawer pulls.  They are customer service friendly and quick with response to your order needs.

Well, that’s our post for today thanks for stopping by Hello I Live Here – Until or next storage saving post – have an awesome night!

Linda –

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Complete

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets

The other day we wrote about turning a dresser into a room divider and storage.  Today we will finish this project with the living room sitting bench with storage baskets.  I was inspired to create, design and build this functional sitting bench while roaming through a Ballard’s catalog and their Bourdonnais Desk.  The fancy x leg design was calling my name.

This DIY custom build furniture was actually quite simple.  The overall length of the living room sitting bench with storage baskets was determined by the length of our dresser room divider from part two.

Here is the living room sitting bench with storage baskets measurements and materials:

Overall size: 54”L x 14 ¾”H x 18”D

Materials to purchase:

1 – 2×2 @ 6’ – Pine

1 – 1×2 @ 8’ – Pine

6 – 1×3 @ 6’ – Pine

1 – 13/64 Plywood @ 54” x 18” – plywood

Kreg pocket hole screws 1 ¼” and 1” for joining the sitting bench to the frame.

Cut List

Legs

4 – 2×2 @ 14”

4 – 1×3 @ 15”

4 – 1×2 @ approximately 22” [will form the X design on the legs]

Frame

5 – 1×3 @ 50 1/8” [your size may vary depending on the bench length]

9 – 1×3 @ 15” [to hold the storage baskets]

Instructions for building your living room sitting bench with storage baskets

It is always advisable to read through all the plans before you start any project.  Here are the living room sitting bench with storage baskets building plans complete with measurements:

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Building Plans with measurements
Sitting Bench Building Plans

Cut the four 2×2 and four 1×3 for the legs.  Whenever I cut pieces the same size, I like to use a jig to ensure each cut is identical.

Kreg drill two holes using the ¾” drill guide in each end of the 1×3.  These will attach to the 2×2.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Kreg Drill and Screw

Since we wanted a reveal on our sitting bench legs we placed a scrap piece of 1x beneath the 1x3s.  Briefly clamp the 2x2s to prevent the legs from moving while you drill the 1 ¼” Kreg screws.  Attach two 1x3s to two 2×2.  You now have one side of your living room sitting bench with storage baskets built.  Repeat the process for the second leg.

Building the X design on the legs was a bit tricky, but with some patience, it worked out just fine.  The trick is to draw the correct angle on our 1×2.  Lay a 1×2 underneath the leg, making sure the edges align. Carefully draw a line on each end to mark the angle.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - X Design

 

Lay the board on our saw and attempt to align the pencil mark with the laser beam (We are lucky to have Ryobi radial arm saw with a laser light, something we purchased last year).  Secure the piece to the saw and cut the angle.  Using an angle finder we had a 75 degree angle.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Cut the X

Now comes the tricky part, cutting a dado on each X so the pieces overlapped.  We used the same method to find the angles were the Xs cross each other.  Lay one on top of the other and draw a razor thin line to mark your dado edges.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Mark the Dado

Set your table saw depth to half the width the 1×2 (3/8”).  I positioned the miter gauge to match the angle (about 75 degrees, but this required several practice cuts to get the angle correct).  Using a stop block, I marked the right and left edge of the dado. Then I used successive passes of the saw to remove the require material.  It worked like a charm. The pieces fit to each other like a glove.  For the inevitable gaps, a little wood putty covers any blemish.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Dado Angle

Glue and nail the X frame members to the frame.  It may be difficulty to get the nail gun into such a tight spot, so use a wood stop to prevent the nail bit from running on you.  If need be, use a nail set to drive the nail beneath wood surface.

Fill all the Kreg holes with wood putty.  We created our own mix, but you can also use 3M Wood Filler.  Then, while this is drying, you can start on cutting the frame parts.

Cut the five 50 1/8” 1x3s for the frame.  Kreg drill two holes using the ¾” drill guide in each end of the frame members which will secure to the legs. Also drill three Kreg holes in the three top frame pieces.  This will secure the sitting bench top to the frame.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Attach Frame to leg

To attach the frame pieces to the legs, lay the sitting bench legs on its side and stand the frame members up tall.  Clamp a scrap wood piece to prevent the frame member from moving when you drill the Kreg screws.to join the frame.  Repeat this process to connect the five frame members to the legs.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Completed Frame and Dry Fit Bench Top

Ta-da!  Your frame is built.  Pretty easy uh.

Next cut the nine 15” 1x3s that will form the slates to hold your storage baskets.  Kreg drill two holes in each end using the ¾” drill guide.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Basket Slates Added

Secure the slates to the bottom frame members using Kreg screws.  Use a spacer to ensure equal length between each slate. The first wood slate was ¾” from the end.  The remaining slates were equally spaced 3 ¼”.

We then sanded all the slates to ensure a smooth finish.

Until next time when we finish the Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets by painting piece to match our décor and adding the foam cushion and wonderful burlap fabric.

Living Room Sitting Bench with Storage Baskets - Complete

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Linda

Rustic Planter Box

Step 9 - Finished Rustic Planter Box

Create a rustic planter box for your Christmas porch with Hello I Live Here

Happy Wednesday everyone!  Today I am sharing a terrific build, our Rustic Planter box that will be part of our theme on the front porch this Christmas.  This rustic planter box is inexpensive to make, and uses minimal tools and materials.  Patience is a virtue with this fun little project, as you may need to make adjustments as you move along, but trust me, it’s all worth it ;-).

Here’s what you will need –

– 4-Strip wood 1 x 1 x 8′

– 8 -1x3x8′ rustic or pinewood

– 8-1x2x8′ rustic or pine wood

– 1-1x4x8′ rustic or pine wood

– 2 boxes (24″) Land survey stakes (cut each point off the stake)

– Miter Saw

– Various size clamps

– Ryobi nail gun with 1 3/8″ and 2″ nails

– Wood Glue

– Eye protection

– Ear protection

Tools You Need for Rustic Planter Box

Now let’s get started!

1.  I made a basic frame for my Rustic Planter Box that was 24″ H x 16″ W x 16″ W.  I formed two squares by cutting the 1″ x 1″ wood into 8- 16″ pieces.  I glued and nailed these pieces into 16″ x 16″ squares with Titebond wood glue and my Ryobi Nail gun using 2″ nails (this ensures the nails go through for strength.)

Step 1 Making Frame

2. Next, I cut 4-24″ pieces of 1″x 1″ wood.  I joined the top and bottom by attaching the four leg sections to create a “box”.  I used wood glue and 1 3/8″ nails to secure the legs.

Step 2 - Continue Frame

3.  Then I cut 6- 1×2’s 16″ long, and attached the 1×2’s to the base of the rustic planter box.  I spaced the 1×2″ 1″ apart, glued into place, and nailed with a 1 3/8″ nail.

Step 3 - Bottom Base of Rustic Planter Box

4.  I cut 4 small blocks about 4″ long and glued and nailed onto the bottom base in the four corners.  This gives the box the feet it needs, and helps drainage.

Step 4 - Base Feet Rustic Planter Box

5.  Standing the planter back up on its base, begin attaching your 1 x 3’s to the longest side of the box, spacing them apart enough to add the outside stake pieces to cover the crack.  Each side will vary due to the size of your box.  I took my time and added the first stake piece to the outside corner, then measured the 1×3 out to the end of the stake.  Once I had the first two pieces set, I continued to go back and forth adding the stake to the outside of the box, and then the 1×3 to the inside of the box until, I finished the front side.

Step 5 - Attaching sides of Rustic Planter Box

6.  Because sides were an 1″ smaller due to the square assembly (top and bottom), I used a combination of  2 – 1×3’s and 2 1×2’s  at 24″ cuts to complete the look of both sides.  Again, I moved around the frame starting with the stake to the outside corner of the frame, and moved to assign, the 1×3 followed by a stake to the outside, and then inserted the 1×2’s going back and forth, until I finished the side with the 1×3 at the other end.

step 6 - Sides of Rustic Planter Box

7.  Giving the Rustic Planter Box a finished look, I used 1×3’s cut with 45-degree angels to the length of the box at each end.  I attached this frame to the top and bottom until I completed the outside trim.

step 7 - Finish Work Rustic Planter Box

8.  Hello I Live Here finished the design with the 1×4’s cut on a 45-degree angle and attached to the top of the rustic planter box.  Then we finished off the box by adding a 1″ finishing strip to set the bottom with a little more rustic flair.

step 8 - Top Rustic Planter Box Trim

9.  Tada!  The finished rustic planter box.

Step 9 - Finished Rustic Planter Box

The project took about 4 hours to complete, and was a pretty easy yet enjoyable to build.  If you have left over scrap wood, do not hesitate to use it and modify the plan using the scraps you have.  We were out of the sizes of s we needed due to our last two projects, the towel rack, and wood frames which were both featured on Bob Vila Nation.

In a couple weeks, we will show you how Hello I Live Here stained the rustic planter box to use as the focal point of our beautiful Christmas porch display.  🙂  Happy building and we will see you next post!

🙂 Linda

DIY Dresser

DIY Dresser - Finished Product

DIY Dresser with 5 drawers

Hi everyone!  Hope your Monday has been wonderful 🙂  Tonight, I am going to share with you a great set of plans I got from ana-white.com, her fabulous DIY Dresser with 5 drawers.  Our oldest daughter needed a new dresser, but hated the high furniture prices, and the fact she could not find a bedroom dresser she loved.  Browsing through Ana’s site I came across her plan for the wide cabin DIY Dresser.  After getting our daughter’s approval, her father and I got to work building this fantastic bedroom dresser!

DIY dresser - Almost complete
DIY Dresser – Almost complete

It was an easy build, and took us a weekend to complete, down to the staining of the DIY dresser.  Here is what we did:

1. We read the plans from front to back, and precut all our Select Pine Lumber and PureBond plywood we purchased from The Home Depot.  We then marked out all the Pocket Holes (PH’s) as suggested by the plan by drilling 3/4″ holes using our Kreg Jig, and attaching the pieces with 1 1/4″ Kreg screws  and glue (Curt loves nails as well, so he also added a couple nails using the Ryobi Cordless Nailer. We were relieved to find how easy it was constructing this part of the DIY dresser 🙂

DIY Dresser - Wood for the project
DIY Dresser – Wood for the Project
DIY Dresser - Wood for the project
DIY Dresser – Pre-Cut Wood

 

DIY Dresser - husband making careful measurements
DIY Dresser – Measurements
DIY Dresser -Side panel
DIY Dresser -Side panel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Once finished, we attached the legs as directed with 1 1/4″ PH screws, and attached the bottom with 1/2″ and 2 1/2 screws (we used Kreg brand screws and love them).

DIY Dresser -Side panel PH screws and glue
DIY Dresser -Side panel PH screws and glue
DIY Dresser -one side panel complete
DIY Dresser -one side panel complete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Moving through the plan, we added the front and back trim, watching the DIY dresser take come to life.  We took Ana’s advice and added the dividers as we went along, and we were glad we did! (see plan).

DIY Dresser -drawer frames attached
DIY Dresser – Frame
DIY Dresser -aligning the drawer frame
DIY Dresser – Aligning Frame

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. We continued the process until we had the frame and dividers complete, making sure we were accurate with the dividers by using our level.  This helped with adjustments, and got us to the next step quickly.

DIY Dresser - the completed frame
DIY Dresser – the completed frame

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. In step 5, we build the top using PureBond Plywood and attached it with 2″ Kreg screws as the plan advised through 2×2 top trim (we were feeling great about the build – because it was exactly as the plan stated). We then drilled 3/4″ pocket holes around all sides of bottom shelf and attached to side trim using 1/14″ pocket hole screws just like the plan suggested.

DIY Dresser - attach the top
DIY Dresser – attach the top

 

 

 

Kreg Screws
Kreg Screws

 

 

 

 

 

6. Once we got the frame built and the top/bottom into place, we build the drawers.  Because we have had trouble with drawers in the past, we decided to fit each drawer to the opening making sure it was right the first time, allowing us to adjust as we moved along. (see plan)

DIY Dresser - Building the drawers
DIY Dresser – Building the drawers
DIY Dresser - installing the drawer glides
DIY Dresser – installing the drawer glides

7.  After fitting each drawer, we then added 1×2 pine blocking for drawer braces on the sides and under each drawer in the center for extra support (we know our daughter and what lives in her dresser, so we wanted the bottoms to have the support she needed ;-).  We installed the supports  3/4″ from front face frame as plan directed giving us room while installing the drawers.

DIY Dresser - almost finished
DIY Dresser – almost finished

8. Now that the braces were installed, we insert glides on to the drawers using the glides suggested that we bought at The Home Depot, and attach drawer faces using 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue”.  Standing back, we were very pleased with the view of the dresser.

Drawer Glides
Drawer Glides

9. Moving to the back, we attach 1/4″ plywood (PureBond) using 3/4″ nails and our favorite Wood Glue. We now had this beautiful dresser.

DIY Dresser - time to stain
DIY Dresser – time to stain

10. We filled the nail holes using Elmer’s wood filler and completely dried, and then sanded the dresser with 120 grit sand paper.  Once done, we cleaned the dust, and applied wood sealer to the pine and PureBond.  (This is standard on our projects, helping to keep stain bleed from absorbing to heavy and blotching the stain.

Elmer's wood filler
Elmer’s wood filler

11. We then stained the dresser using a combination of Minwax Mahogany stain and Espresso stain at our daughter’s request.  This gave the piece the darker color she was looking for with a hue of red inside the stain, matching her headboard and side tables.

DIY Dresser - Stained - time for the hardware
DIY Dresser – Stained – time for the hardware

12.  Last, we added Liberty 1-1/4 in. Hollow Cabinet Hardware to the drawers and delivered to our daughter’s apartment.  Here’s the finished project, living in it’s new owners suite!

DIY Dresser - The finished product
DIY Dresser – The finished product

Our daughter loves the dresser!  She now has five new drawers, an open dresser bottom for storage or baskets, and the height is perfect for her TV.  It was a win-win, and she got the dresser of her dreams thanks to Ana’s plans.  If you would like to build this piece you can get plans at Ana-white.com

Hope you all enjoyed the post as much as we enjoyed building and sharing it with you!  Here’s to a great Monday evening! 🙂

-LC

Recycling Center Anyone?

Recycling Center

Recycling Center you can build yourself!

Happy Wednesday everyone 🙂

It’s all about recycling today.  We all understand that recycling is important.  It helps with energy savings, can reduce greenhouse emissions and cuts down on water/air pollution.  But do the cans in our kitchen’s  need to be visible while doing a good deed?  You can purchase a can with a lid, however, the lids get lost, broken or just plain do not work.  I am all for recycling, but wanted a little style while doing this good deed.  Could it be possible I could class up my trash container?  The answer, YES, yes you can!

While at the library searching for ideas, a book “The Handbuilt Home” by Ana White, jumped off the shelf and into my arms like it heard my request for a classy way to store my trash.  I read through the book and stumbled on her Recycling Center plans.  You can get the plans for it at Ana White.  After reading her book and falling in love with it, I decided to purchase the Kindle Version, and it’s been worth every penny I paid for it 🙂 .

With book in hand we got to work.  This project was not hard, and the plans were well thought out (thank you Ana White!)  We followed the directions, and completed our new recycle bin.

1.  We built the frame using our Kreg Jig 2″ screws as Ana suggested, to build the box which included the top, bottom, and sides.  We soon found out why the bottom shelf was 2 1/2″ from the bottom, and why we needed to leave a 3/4″ gap underneath the top shelf as suggested.  She was right, read the plan before you start building 😉 We did make sure it was square!  Brownie points there please.

Recycling Center - start with a box

2.  Next, we attached the bottom trim piece using 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.

Recycling Center - Add trim and shelving

3.  Moving on, we covered the back.  Instead of using 1/4″ ply, we used an extra piece of bead board we had in the garage (recycling and saving money all at once!)

Recycling center - Add beadboard to the back

4.  The plan calls for cutting footers. I personally went with straight edges because I hate to sweep under those darn small openings, but you are welcome to use what you like 🙂  We cut, glued and nailed, and moved to the next step

Recycling center - Build the door using 1x4

5. and 6. called for us to add the trim to the back of the unit and then the front of the unit.  This is where you will see a 3/4″ gap left at the top – don’t freak out like we did – there is a reason why it’s there!

Recycling center - Build the door using 1x4

7. Here’s where you fill that 3/4″ gap – the missing front edge. Nail and glue in place the size of 1×2 you need (ours was longer because we doubled the size of the unit. That last piece completed the cabinet construction, and we moved to the next piece of the puzzle.

Recycling center - Finish work

8.  Refer to the plan to make the cuts for your door trim, and sides for the can insert.  We used bead board to complete our door to match the back panel.  We also left the second side open to install baskets in the openings to hold small items.

Recycling center - perfect for baskets Recycling center -The final product - Door, hardware and stained

9.  We hinged the door to the bottom so it would tilt out, and attached a decorative handle  just as the plan suggested.

Recycling center - Fits perfectly

The one thing we did different, the top – we added a piece of burlap and Mod Podged it down.  We then cut a piece of plastic we had in the garage to cover the burlap and finished with an L-shaped molding that we painted black to give some contrast to our useful can holder.  This allows us to use the top for goodies with easy cleaning.  We also added an air freshener inside the can from Airwick, as we all know recycling can get messy 😉   Our recycle center came out very classy, and looks like a piece of furniture.  To get the antiqued finish with used Bear flat paint left over from our Villa wall color and Minwax aged oak stain combo.  We LOVE it! You can no longer see the trash – problem solved!

Recycling center -adding a Mod Podge burlap top Recycling center -adding a Mod Podge burlap top Recycling center -add some trim to the top

That’s our post for today!  We thank Ana White for the plans.  If you have not gone to her site ( ana-white.com ), please do – you will not be disappointed.

Remember, re-purpose, recycle, but always store properly if it does not fit the first two cycles!  Bright and sunny Wednesday everyone!

-LC

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